[WANTED] Early A-body six blade engine fan for V8

April 22, 2016, 7:44 pm

≫ Next: I found my Holley carb….think it was on the Titanic….scary pics….

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Wanted to buy
Early A-body six blade engine fan for V8
you must be willing to post to South Australia
thanks

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I found my Holley carb….think it was on the Titanic….scary pics….

April 22, 2016, 8:13 pm

≫ Next: Engine cuts when revving

≪ Previous: [WANTED] Early A-body six blade engine fan for V8

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650 Holley DP carb, bought it new 10 years ago, been working awesome for the last 9 years since installed on my 340 4-speed....left me getting home last fall Fred Flinstone style....figured "9 years of use with no tweaking is pretty good" so I got a rebuild trick kit and tore it apart...was shocked to find the amount of crust found inside......all parts appear to have a date code of 2005, but the bowls, and main body are toast!!! I have seen and rebuilt better carbs from junk yard cars where the carb was exposed to the elements for years!!! Always run good gas in this engine too, often mixed with race fuel and additive for winter storage (car sleeps during the winter in heated shop)

No rot on the metering blocks, base plate (except light rust on steel butterflies), jets, power valves, acc pump housings...etc.....anybody else ever see this? My friend who can rebuild these in his sleep says he thinks he can remember a batch that had bad metal? I have never seen this before, car ran awesome for the last 9 years...pics soon....

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Engine cuts when revving

April 22, 2016, 8:13 pm

≫ Next: 318 cuts out when revving

≪ Previous: I found my Holley carb….think it was on the Titanic….scary pics….

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Hi. We use a pertronix 3 system on 67 318 in a 74 dart sport. Timing is ok at idle checked via timing light. When revving the engine , the rev light goes out , and the engine suddenly stops . After a half second or so, the engine sparks again, with a healthy timing idle. We know it has to be spark plugs losing power, since the timing light goes off when revving. Also , we by passed all wires and connected the ignition coil directly to the battery. Healthy idle but same problem as above when revving. We cleaned all the points on the distributor, so it should be grounded. We think it is the distributor that has the problem. Any thoughts. My dad thinks it might fix the problem is we pull out the spring on the inside of the distributor higher. Please help. I get (hopefully) my permit in less than two weeks so we need it to be ready to go

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318 cuts out when revving

April 22, 2016, 8:14 pm

≫ Next: [FOR SALE] 70-72 340 Hood and Stripe Decals kit

≪ Previous: Engine cuts when revving

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Hi. We use a pertronix 3 system on 67 318 in a 74 dart sport. Timing is ok at idle checked via timing light. When revving the engine , the rev light goes out , and the engine suddenly stops . After a half second or so, the engine sparks again, with a healthy timing idle. We know it has to be spark plugs losing power, since the timing light goes off when revving. Also , we by passed all wires and connected the ignition coil directly to the battery. Healthy idle but same problem as above when revving. We cleaned all the points on the distributor, so it should be grounded. We think it is the distributor that has the problem. Any thoughts. My dad thinks it might fix the problem is we pull out the spring on the inside of the distributor higher. Please help. I get (hopefully) my permit in less than two weeks so we need it to be ready to go

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[FOR SALE] 70-72 340 Hood and Stripe Decals kit

April 22, 2016, 8:26 pm

≫ Next: Speedometer problems

≪ Previous: 318 cuts out when revving

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Hello I am selling a New 70-72 340 Hood and stripe decals kit for a Duster from Autos Decals Unlimited that I am not going to use. I am asking 85.00 or best offer plus the ride for it. I am located in Wa. State, Please e-mail with any questions. Thanks again for looking...

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Speedometer problems

April 22, 2016, 8:30 pm

≫ Next: Huge FCA recall…..

≪ Previous: [FOR SALE] 70-72 340 Hood and Stripe Decals kit

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I just installed a new speedometer cable from the transmission to the speedometer hookup (push on - clip type) on the back of the dash bezel in a 1969 Valiant. While driving, the speedometer needle goes crazy! It wildly bounces back and forth and is registering 80 to 110 mph when I know I'm going 30 mph. There are no kinks or sharp bends in the cable at all. Anyone ever have this problem?

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Huge FCA recall…..

April 22, 2016, 9:01 pm

≫ Next: How did you run your fuel line?

≪ Previous: Speedometer problems

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I guess when you build crap....

http://www.cbc.ca/news/business/fiat...call-1.3549385

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How did you run your fuel line?

April 22, 2016, 9:05 pm

≫ Next: Factory primer in 67?

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Ok so I'm working on the fuel system install on my 68 Barracuda. I'm using a 12 gal RCI aluminum fuel cell (2121A),I'm plumbing this to a Fram HPG fuel filter, then to a 12-802-1 Holley electric fuel pump. From this point I need a little advice. Filter/pump is mounted on the inside of the right rear frame rail.
I would like to run the fuel line and the return fuel line on the outside of the frame rail. I plan on running both lines thru the body braces towards the front, then up the fender well to the top of the inner fender well and use two bulkhead connectors at the top.
How can I make the transition of the fuel lines from the inside of the frame rails to the outside?
I forgot to mention I have frame rail connectors. I don't want to run the lines under the frame rails, so I'm thinking to drill holes through the frame rails right in front of the front leaf spring hanger. This sound good? Or maybe you have a better idea?

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Factory primer in 67?

April 22, 2016, 9:27 pm

≫ Next: Tis The Season… For Bikes.

≪ Previous: How did you run your fuel line?

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Hey guys been a while since I've been on the site. Been pretty busy as of late but anyways, I started doing the body work on my 67 fb cuda. Car was repainted by previous owner some 30ish years ago , so I used aircraft stripper to get car down to metal to start fresh , I got down through most of the layers but now I'm down to this red layer which I'm guessing is a corrosion protectant of some sort or an etch possibly an etch??.. So it has factory paint coat , a primer coat ,Then this red coat which I don't know what it is and then that's on top of the bare metal.......

So my questions are ... What is this coating?? And since my car does not have any rust on it .... Is it ok to leave that red coat on the car and lay my epoxy primer over it ?... What I'm trying to do is save my self from sanding off if it can actually benefit me and provide more protection ...

I'll try to post a pic see if it comes up but you can see all the coats in this picture
The dark blue which last owner sprayed,then a primer under that , then the factory color which is a blue/sliver , then another primer coat , the red coat and then bare metal


Thank you all in advance sorry if it's a little confusing trying to describe best way possible

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Tis The Season… For Bikes.

April 22, 2016, 9:50 pm

≫ Next: Interesting cylinder heads (not mine)

≪ Previous: Factory primer in 67?

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The weather is getting nice, and I should be busting the Blown Duster out of storage. Something has to offset all that fuel consumption though :D :burnout:

So, it's time to break out the ol' Yamahog. She hasn't moved in years, ever since the fuel tank sprang a leak (crack at the seam). Not to forget, that I found 2 mice that got trapped in the Oil Mix Tank on the Assembly Line (bigger than the fill port on the tank :wack: ) and I had to gut and flush the 2-stroke mixing system.

Fast forward to about 2 weeks ago. I soldered the gas tank and sealed the inside of it with RedKote. Rebuilt the Autolube Mixing Pump, Repainted the Bike (it was getting pretty faded), upgraded to LED bulbs in the Brake Light and Turn Signals, Built a Cargo/Luggage Rack for her (hey, gotta haul a case somehow :D ) and ordered a new rear tire and some NOS Throttle Cables for her.

Her she was a few days ago. I've since installed the cables and rear tire, now I've just gotta take her to get inspected.








The Red is a custom mix of a bunch of different leftovers I had on the shelf. There's a bit of Rallye Red, Candy Apple, Black Cherry and some Mystery Red (that no longer had a label on it) and some metal flake in the mix.

What she looked like a few years ago.




My joke over the last week or so has been. "It runs, but I think there's something wrong with it... It smokes." :D Only two or three people have actually got that joke.

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Interesting cylinder heads (not mine)

April 22, 2016, 9:53 pm

≫ Next: [FOR SALE] Pro Comp Brake Pressure Gauge

≪ Previous: Tis The Season… For Bikes.

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http://www.ebay.com/itm/RARE-MOPAR-S...ZW5gmq&vxp=mtr

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[FOR SALE] Pro Comp Brake Pressure Gauge

April 22, 2016, 10:04 pm

≫ Next: Langley 66 barracuda

≪ Previous: Interesting cylinder heads (not mine)

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Used Autometer Procomp brake pressure gauge. mechanical 0-2000psi, liquid filled. Good condition. $65+shipping. Send me a PM if interested. Thanks.

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Langley 66 barracuda

April 22, 2016, 10:08 pm

≫ Next: Bad Gas issue….fuel guys….fuel!

≪ Previous: [FOR SALE] Pro Comp Brake Pressure Gauge

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Hi to who ever is watching
I'm not able to find, or even see what a splash shied looks like
, the one tha will protect the hinges down to the bottom of the inner fenders

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Bad Gas issue….fuel guys….fuel!

April 23, 2016, 3:26 am

≫ Next: ssomethings wrong

≪ Previous: Langley 66 barracuda

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After not starting for a couple or a few months, it was a sumb**tch, to get the Dart going...crank, crank, sputter, backfire, then when it does catch, afterfire in the exhaust. Pull the plugs and they are black and wet with fuel. I finally have started draining the front bowl of the carb and filling it with fresh fuel and do not have a problem.

Everything else is up to snuff, fuel pressure, timing, lash, mixtures, bleeds, etc., etc.

The car runs and starts great if I do not let it sit too long.

The last post I could find on this issue is about 7 years old. I have not tried to put any fuel stabilizers in it.

Any other words of wisdom??

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ssomethings wrong

April 23, 2016, 4:22 am

≫ Next: 66 Valiant Gas Tank Seal Ring Problem

≪ Previous: Bad Gas issue….fuel guys….fuel!

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got a pm this morning, and keep getting the pop up on it every time I hit a diff. page or post.#-o

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66 Valiant Gas Tank Seal Ring Problem

April 23, 2016, 4:37 am

≫ Next: [FOR SALE] Brand New Snap on Wheel/Tire Balancer!

≪ Previous: ssomethings wrong

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We replaced the tank and sending unit on our 66 valiant, and could not get the O Ring to stop dripping. I saw on here a few months ago, that the rings you buy at auto parts stores are too thin to work properly. Apparently there is someone on here that has Mopar sending unit O rings. Does anyone know how to contact them?

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[FOR SALE] Brand New Snap on Wheel/Tire Balancer!

April 23, 2016, 4:44 am

≫ Next: [FOR SALE] Dart lights

≪ Previous: 66 Valiant Gas Tank Seal Ring Problem

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I purchased the balancer in October preparing to open my own shop. Found a job that payed more with less headaches. Now in the process of buying a home so the wife says the balancer has to go! It's a EEWB331A Snap ON WHEEL BALANCER brand new still sitting on the crate. Great deal for a shop that's just opening or a shop that wants to get rid of their outdated balancer. Brand new the balancer cost $5800. Asking $3800 buyer is responsible for shipping. Located in Philadelphia 19116.

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[FOR SALE] Dart lights

April 23, 2016, 5:01 am

≫ Next: [FOR SALE] Pop Out Duster windows

≪ Previous: [FOR SALE] Brand New Snap on Wheel/Tire Balancer!

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I have two 63 Dart complete lense's an housings, $60pr. and one 64 NOS lens, it has some shelf were, so call it excellent used. $50.

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[FOR SALE] Pop Out Duster windows

April 23, 2016, 5:06 am

≫ Next: [FOR SALE] dome light

≪ Previous: [FOR SALE] Dart lights

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Nice glass, and handles aren't bad either, some pits, good chrome. One stainless trim needs reattachment. Came off a 72. $100.

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[FOR SALE] dome light

April 23, 2016, 5:08 am

≫ Next: [FOR SALE] Foot pump

≪ Previous: [FOR SALE] Pop Out Duster windows

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Like new dome light assembly. $20 plus the ride.

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